South-Eastern Nova Scotia
SEASCAPES, SHELLFISH, SEAFOOD AND SUPER TOURING
(Part 1)
by Debbie Gamble Arsenault
Nova Scotia offers miles upon countless miles of great motorcycle touring routes, and enthusiasts argue about which area is best. My favourite is the southern Nova Scotia circuit which a friend and I travelled a few years ago.
Entering N.S. from New Brunswick at Amherst, follow the 208 (Fundy Shore Drive) to Joggins, where its Fossil Centre features 300‑million year old fossils unique to the Bay of Fundy area. In fact, this particular bit of N.S. coastline is famous for fossils and you will find many opportunities to learn about these fascinating bits of our ancient history.
Following the Fundy Shore Drive will take you through Apple River, Advocate Harbour and Spencer’s Island, to the destination of Parrsboro, one of the nicest little towns in Nova Scotia. Here, you will find more fossil‑themed places, such as the Fundy Geological Museum, and the Parrsboro Rock & Mineral Shop & Museum.
In addition, you’ll find the Age of Sail Heritage Centre, which spotlights the history of lumbering and shipbuilding of the area; the Ottawa House Museum (one of the oldest structures in the Minas Basin, dating from 1775), and for ardent duffers, the Parrsboro Golf Club, where visitors are welcome and club and cart rentals are available.
While in Parrsboro, don’t forget to go to the town centre, to see the huge statue of Glooscap, legendary creator of the Mi’kmaq peoples; one of the many legends told about him is that he could control the Fundy tides.
Leave Parrsboro (reluctantly, no doubt!) and drive along the edge of the Minas Basin, through Five Islands, Economy, Bass River (home of world‑renowned Bass River chairs), travelling towards Truro, the unofficial “hub” of Nova Scotia. Besides lots of businesses and attractions, you’ll be bemused by the whimsically‑painted fire hydrants and tree‑trunks carved into many different themes.
From Truro, take Rte 215 west through Maitland, Noel, Walton and around Grand Pre to Brooklyn, where you’ll turn on to Rt. 1. This will take you to a series of grand little towns: Windsor, Hantsport, Wolfville, Kentville (famous for its Apple Blossom Festival) and Berwick. (If you’re in this area on the first weekend in July, plan to take in the Bluenose Rally, hosted by the Apple Valley Riders M/C association. For more info, go to: www.bluenoserally.com)
Continuing along what is known as the Evangeline Trail, you’ll leave Berwick and drive through Kingston and Middleton towards Bridgetown. For a neat side trip in early August, head towards Annapolis Royal for the Riverside Rally, sponsored by the 74th Crusaders M/C group. (See: www.74thcrusaders.ca/rally2005/index.html) While there, don’t forget to visit Port Royal and Fort Anne national historic sites and the Historic Gardens.
Just a short hop away from all this living history lies the seaside town of Digby, known the world over for its humongous, scrumptious scallops. Order some at one of their restaurants, buy them from a roadside shellfish vendor, or (the best way, I’m told) fill your belly from a dockside fish outlet called the Royal Fundy Market. Digby is also making a name for itself, of late, for the Wharf Rat Rally, being held August 29 ‑ Sept 1, 2008.) For more info, go to: www.wharfratrally.com
Leaving Digby, you can take another neat side trip by following the 217 west along the Digby neck, with your ultimate destination being Brier Island. If you feel a need to stretch your legs along the way, don’t hesitate to stop and visit one of the restored lighthouses, like the one found at Gilbert’s Cove. (Watch for signs along the road.) Brier Island is the whale‑watching capital of Nova Scotia: many species ‑ finback, minke, humpback and right whales frequent the waters, drawn by the abundant plankton brought in by the strong Fundy tides.
Back on Rt 1 south west, leaving Digby, you’ll travel through many seaside villages – with corresponding breathtaking seaside vistas, until you arrive in Yarmouth. This quaint town ischock‑full of culture and history, blessed with year‑round festivals and live entertainment, and also the “sailing off” point for the Cat, the speedy hydrofoil ship which sails to Bar Harbour and Portland, Maine.
(End of Part 1)