NATURE, HISTORY, VICTORIAN TRANQUILITY

EASILY FOUND  IN ST. ANDREWS-BY-THE-SEA

by Julie V. Watson

New Brunswick is, to our mind, Canada’s undiscovered and often unappreciated treasure.  The gateway to the rest of Atlantic Canada offers a variety of driving experience ranging from 4-lane highways to gravel logging roads.  Following your chosen route can take you vastly varied experiences including one of our favorite destinations, St. Andrews-by-the-Sea.

Now this town proved itself motorcyclist friendly earlier this year when they hosted Atlanticade in early July.  We sadly could not attend due to a death in the family, but we did visit a few weeks earlier.  It wasn’t our first visit, nor will it be our last.  This beautiful historic town located just a few minutes off the highway between St. John and St. Stephen is a spot for tranquil relaxation, for great food, for soft adventure, boutique shopping, and much more.

Although know for its historic preservation of Victorian era buildings, and tranquil, relaxing atmosphere the truth is that St. Andrews and area has a vast variety of things to do, ranging from beachcombing to whale watching, golf to art lessons.  There is a huge network of hiking and biking trails, kayaking, gardens to visit, tours to take, historic sites and farms to visit and artists and craftsmen and women to check out.

Whether you enter St Andrews from St. Stephen, located at the border with Calais, Maine, or from St. John you are in for a scenic ride.  Coming in from St. Stephen keep your eyes peeled for the historic site for St. Croix Island, where the first Europeans settled in Canada.  Stop and read their story - it will open your eyes to the lives of those who went before us. The more northern road takes you past some spectacular scenery.  Smart riders take on road into St. Andrews and the other out.

Accommodations range from B&B walkups through motels or country inns, to the town’s icon, the Fairmont Algonquin Hotel.  There is even a campground at the end of town.  On our last trip we treated ourselves to an extended weekend at the Algonquin Hotel and totally enjoyed our stay.  If you go ask them about the history of the hotel, and be sure to meet the canine official greeter.

Eateries also cover a wide spectrum.  When you enter St. Andrews from the exit closer to St. John, you will pass Ossies, a take out for those who crave deep fried clams, fish and chips, home made pies and such to be eaten at picnic tables. Take a side trip down the gravel road adjacent to Ozzie’s and stop in for smoked salmon treats at Oven Head salmon smokers - some of the best we’ve ever tasted. Or perhaps a traditional Victorian treat is your choice; check out Georgiana’s Tea Room or the Library Lounge at the Algonquin.  For a culinary experience that introduces all manner of local ingredients indulge yourself at The Rossmount Inn.  We had some of the best Goose Tongue Greens (a traditional wild harvest) I’ve ever tasted as part of an evening long feast.  

One of my favourite eateries, The Gables, has a great patio, and a menu that goes with sitting overlooking the bay.  Just a few steps away - on the way to the town wharf the owners wife operates a chowder shop. If hiking or mountain biking appeals, stop in to the nearby Jarea Art Studio.  The owner, the artist behind all of the great murals seen around town, is an expert on the trail system and where to get bicycles and such.  

Speaking of the wharf.  This is the place to go for an evening stroll, or to book a seagoing tour boat or just enjoy the ambiance of this Victorian Village by the sea.  Check out the Red Herring Pub for some nighttime entertainment.

For a relaxing weekend where nature, history, and genteel living come together.  St. Andrews-by-the-Sea is the place to be.