Circle Lake Superior

Iron Butt or Slow Cruising “Big” Lake Perfect Loop Tour

by Julie V. Watson

If spectacular scenery, rugged landscape where rock and trees come right to road edge, and water vistas seem to leap up as you power out of curves is for you....If a good road beneath your tires, and ample pull offs makes your day.....If wilderness turns your crank and different experiences grease your mojo....then Lake Superior is a place to be.

We got our introduction to riding in this country on our western trek and can’t wait to return with more time to circle the whole lake.  Our section began at the eastern end, at Sault Ste Marie, and ended at Thunder Bay. 

In Sault Ste. Marie a National Historic Site pays homage to the canal which connects Lake Superior with Lake Huron.  Built in the late 1800s this was the first electrically operated lock in the world and has the only remaining Emergency Swing Dam.  You can be lockmaster, tour behind the scenes and watch boaters passing by. Then cruise along the canal front and explore downtown. Let someone else do the driving with a Lock Tour Boat Cruise or ride the rails on the Agawa Canyon Tour Train.

Weather turned interesting coming out of “The Sou” - fog descended on us. We had fog on and off all the way to Thunder Bay.  Better than rain and it gave a mystical feel to everything.  As we couldn’t see the scenic vistas, we were more focused on the up-close and loved it. This is truly spectacular country, stunning rock outcroppings, mist shrouded lakes, bubbling rivers, and ethereal forests. 

We headed west to Pukaskwa, where you can share a teaching with an aboriginal elder at the National Park. Sandy beaches and parks lured us to walk and enjoy as we traveled and I must say I was impressed by the number of provincial and community parks.  We overnighted in WaWa and had a grand time seeking out giant geese around town.

White River is a must stop.  Once serviced only by the railroad the small town has one big claim to fame.  It is the hometown of Winnie-the-Pooh.  We missed the August festival celebrating the little bear’s rise to fame, but we did get photos by his statue!

When you get to Terrace Bay you are running beside the Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area.  Within its boundaries are shipwrecks, meteorite impact sites, rare plants and animals and of course, amazing scenery.

As official navigator and trip planner I had one must stop - I wanted to mine precious stones. We visited two open pit amethyst mines and now have a small box of treasures.  Great experience especially as it was so foggy we could hardly see in front of us. The fun of unearthing our own semi-precious stones was far better than just buying jewelry in a shop.  The biggest of the mines open to visitors is the Amethyst Mine Pandora, but the most fun was the small Blue Points Amethyst Mine. The latter visit was free and more primitive; you get to grub in the earth, and pay by the bucket. We enjoyed it tremendously. Pandora charges admission, has lots of rules, and charges more for your finds.  They have a good shop with lots of jewelry, etc.

Our only disappointment was the lack of wildlife.  We were told over and over to be wary of deer, moose and bear.  We only had to dodge one bear.  Perhaps it was just too hot.  Strange weather.  Foggy in the mornings then blue skies bringing hot, hot days. .

But back to business.  I have to pass along a warning.  Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife.  It is plentiful and often bounds across the road.  Be especially careful between dusk and morning for nature is on the move and can make an awful mess of a bike - not to mention the homo sapiens at the controls.

Thunder Bay is a great city with a strong cultural base well worth exploring. We near did ourselves in with a rigorous game of mini-golf in the heat.  The guys cooked up a favourite meal for themselves: sauerkraut, sausages, potatoes and onions all boiled together.  We gals stayed upwind of the “stink” and let them go to it - that was our gift to them! Ya gotta love housekeeping cabins!

One stop we highly recommend Fort William, is an interpretive “living history” look at the era around 1815 when voyageurs were hauling huge canoes filled with fur from the wilderness north of Lake Superior to Montreal.  Paddling, portaging, hauling what ever was needed to feed the fur hungry European market was the reason for the trading post which was manned by Europeans, mostly British, Metis and Ojibway.  Interesting to see how the cultures came together, especially how the British survived. We got a taste of  bannock cooked over an open fire in fat rendered from game, had delicious voyageurs stew for lunch and I foraged for native plants which were used as food, flavouring and medicine. 

I  recommend you take in Kakabeka Falls before continuing around Superior. Almost as high as Niagara and beautiful. Crossing the bridge at the top of the falls gives a wonderful view of the river.  Perhaps not as impressive now as in the past; some of the water flow is diverted for electricity, but certainly amazing when you think of the voyageurs  portaging around them.

After a four day “rest” in Thunder Bay it was time to hit the road. We had to leave Lake Superior because our ultimate destination this trip is the Pacific Ocean, however,  heartily recommend taking the full Lake Superior Circle Tour. It  takes you over the border - have your passport ready - then enjoy Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan

You’ll hug the shoreline for much of its 1,300 miles taking in the scenery and exchanging pleasantries with “lake people” and fellow bikers along the way. There will be lots of them, this loop tour is on the newly discovered lists for lots of individual and club runs. An Iron Butt has reportedly done the trip in 21 hours, but frankly I think it merits a week - or two.

To help you get the most out of your Lake Superior tour there is a free guide, Lake Superior Circle Tour Adventure Guide.  We picked up one at a tourism office enroute.