North of Vancouver, British Columbia

EAGLES OF BRACKENDALE DELIGHTFUL JANUARY DESTINATION

By Julie V. Watson

It was one of those days when the mild temperatures and moments of sun shine breaking through the clouds lures one outdoors for what may be a short ride, if the weatherman's prediction of rain holds true.  After all it is January 13th, in Canada.  There is only one reason a person can even consider taking a bike out in January. We are in British Columbia's Vancouver. 

This was the year we treated ourselves; leaving East Coast winter for more favourable weather of the west coast.  Still in our minds January is not the time of year for a leisurely ride.

Nevertheless, we headed out of Vancouver, across the Lion's Gate Bridge and onto Hwy 99 north bound towards Whistler.  The ski resort was not our destination this day.  Heck we remember hearing many times that Squamish marks the line between dry pavement and snow covered. No, this day we are heading off to seek out the Bald Eagles at Brackendale.

Riding the Sea to Sky Highway is not for the faint hearted rider at any time.  The road hugs the mountains.  Sheer rock walls with signs warning of the danger of falling rock on one side, sheer drop offs to the waters of Howe Sound on the other.

Now, with construction taking place to make the road more "user friendly" in time for the 2010 Olympic Winter Games, the extra challenge of ruts, pot holes, washboard ridges, construction debris, heavy equipment, detours, reduced speed zones, - well you get the picture. Negotiating the 70 km or so is tricky and can take longer than one would expect.

Of course the advantage is that with the speed limit reduced to 50 km traffic isn't pressuring one to speed through a truly magnificent scenic area.  Between the construction and the parking lots covered with snow even below the Squamish line we were not tempted to pull off into any of the parks or walking trails.  In fact our first stop was the Nesters Market in Squamish where we purchased a map, some fruit and baked goods - I was determined to have a wee picnic as I observed wildlife.

We also got directions to the eagle viewing area.  Just a couple of miles up 99 past Squamish, signs to wildlife viewing mark the way. Follow those signs to Government Road. The number of cars parked along the road side indicated we have arrived. 

You need the indicator.  For here a high municipal dyke separates the road from the Squamish  River, which attracts dozens of eagles each day to fish for salmon.  Folks ranging from professional photographers with very impressive long lenses on their cameras to dog walkers, from families with young children to seniors enjoying a stroll, can all be found walking along the top of this barrier enjoying not only the sight of majestic birds and a superb view of the mountains, but also the wonderfully refreshing mountain air.

I'm told mid-November to mid-February is the best time of year for eagle viewing, and that mornings, just after first light are a prime time.  Then you may be lucky enough to see them fishing for the breakfast.  Even in the middle of the day, when we arrived, there was an impressive number of eagles regally perched in the trees across the river.  One gets the impression these great birds, like royalty, quietly sit allowing mere morals below a glimpse into their regal life. To our delight one juvenile perched above the shelter manned by volunteers with Eagle Watch on our side of the river.  Their telescopes made for a closeup look at this magnificent bird.

One tip for viewing, if it is very cold the eagles may not be as visible.  Our volunteer told us that they are more apt to scavenge than fish to conserve energy when it is chilly.  The number of eagles you will see depends on luck and your powers of observation.  The record number of birds counted in one day is 3,769, but our reality was closer to a dozen. Even one is magnificent.

I can't tell you how much we enjoyed this day out.  Coming to Vancouver from the east coast to escape the throes of winter we had expected nothing but rain.  What a joy this is: sun breaking through the clouds, interesting people met, great scenery, moist refreshing air. Passed a dozen or more bikes on the road this January day. Enjoying the same run, they were dressed for the weather, but not bundled up.

There are, of course, some interesting stops along the way if you want 'em.  Horseshoe Bay the jump off point for ferries, which take adventurers off to places like Vancouver Island, Gibsons and Sechelt,.is also home to a couple of good eateries, and a great stop to enjoy the view of the marina, totems and the ferries.  Porteau Cove has a neat little campground, good level parking and is a wonderful place to lounge back and enjoy the sound.  Just as a point of interest there is a marine park here.

Along the way check out cool stops at Shannon Falls, a mining museum, marinas, and, when you get closer to the city, exits for Grouse Mountain and Capilano Suspension Bridge.

It was near dark as we got into the line of traffic jockeying for position to cross Lions Gate Bridge into Vancouver via Stanley Park.  Be aware here - it can be hairy as several lanes merge into one or two.  Once in the park take a side road off for a leisurely entry to the city, or follow the traffic for a quicker return.

There are some great eateries along Denman Street.  My favourite, The Banana Leaf, dishes up impressive Thai meals.  Another favourite, Checkers located in The Sands Best Western Hotel on Davie near Denman, has a less exotic, but every bit as satisfying menu.  The food and service have always been excellent.  I can also recommend this hotel for its rooms and reasonable cost - at least in the off season.

IF YOU HAVE TIME

- Check out the eagle watching rafting trips down the river. Do avoid invasive jet boats or tactics to scare the eagles into flight.

- Hike into Shannon Falls for a thundering experience

- Visit Brackendale Art Gallery.  Its owner is largely responsible for the protection of the nesting area and very knowledgeable about the eagles.